Leather, one of humanity's oldest materials, has played a pivotal role in our history. From the earliest hunters and gatherers to modern artisans, leather has been a durable, versatile, and luxurious material used for clothing, shelter, tools, and art. But how did this craft evolve?
Let’s take a look back at the fascinating history of leather tanning and Leathercraft, exploring the processes, tools, and the significance of some of Europe’s oldest tanneries.
How it started.
The history of Leathercrafting dates back to the Stone Age, around 5000 BCE. Early humans discovered that animal hides could be transformed into a useful material by drying, salting, or smoking them to prevent decay. These rudimentary processes were the first steps toward tanning, though they were far from the sophisticated methods we use today.
In ancient Egypt, leather became a prized material. Artifacts and tomb paintings show its use in sandals, shields, and scrolls. Egyptians softened hides with fat and treated them with plant-based substances like tannins, found in tree bark. Similarly, the Mesopotamians and Greeks developed Leathercrafting for armour, footwear, and ceremonial uses. Leather even adorned chariots and was crafted into intricate designs for nobility.
The Evolution of Tanning Methods
Tanning is the process of preserving animal hides by stabilizing the proteins to prevent decomposition. Over millennia, tanners experimented with a variety of materials and techniques, many of which remain in use in some form today.
Vegetable Tanning
This method, one of the oldest, uses tannins extracted from plants such as oak, chestnut, and hemlock bark. The hides are soaked in tannin-rich solutions, a process that can take several months. Vegetable-tanned leather is sturdy, develops a patina over time, and is used today for saddlery, belts, and traditional leather goods.
Brain Tanning
Used by Indigenous cultures worldwide, brain tanning involved rubbing animal brains (which contain emulsified oils) into the hides, followed by smoking them to impart durability and resistance to moisture. This method is rarely used today.
Chrome Tanning
Introduced in the 19th century, chrome tanning uses chromium salts for a faster process. The resulting leather is soft, pliable, and suited for mass production, including clothing and upholstery. However it can tarnish some metals so is not usually used for tool holders or tool rolls.
Alum Tanning
Alum tanning uses aluminum salts and is one of the lightest tanning methods, producing a pale, soft leather often used in bookbinding and decorative applications.
Tools of the Trade
Over the centuries, Leathercrafting has relied on specialized tools. While modern machinery has replaced many traditional techniques, artisanal Leathercrafters still use age-old tools:
- Knives and Skivers: For cutting and thinning leather.
- Awls: To punch holes for stitching.
- Bevelers: For rounding edges.
- Mallets and Stamps: For decorative impressions.
- Needles and Thread: For hand-stitching leather pieces.
In addition to these, tanning required vats, wooden beams for scraping hides, and large areas for drying. Despite technological advances, many tanneries today preserve these traditional methods for premium-quality leather.
Europe's Oldest Tanneries
Europe is home to some of the world’s oldest tanneries, many of which date back centuries. These establishments not only supplied leather for local needs but also became key players in international trade.
Santa Croce sull'Arno, Italy
Tuscany is synonymous with fine leather, and Santa Croce sull'Arno, a small town near Florence, has been a hub for vegetable-tanned leather since the Middle Ages. Its proximity to water (essential for tanning) and an abundance of oak and chestnut trees made it ideal for this craft. Today, the area supplies leather to luxury brands like Gucci and Prada.
Fes, Morocco (Historical Influence)
While not in Europe, the tanneries of Fes influenced European practices through the Moors. Spain and Portugal adopted similar techniques during the Reconquista, enriching Europe’s leather traditions.
Basque Country, Spain
In Ezpeleta and surrounding areas, tanneries emerged in the 14th century due to abundant livestock and oak forests. These tanneries specialized in durable leather for footwear and farming equipment.
Chipping Campden, England
In medieval England, tanneries flourished in market towns like Chipping Campden, where hides from sheep and cattle were readily available. The town's tannery catered to local farmers and the wool trade, a backbone of the English economy.
Alcanena, Portugal
Known as the “Leather Capital” of Portugal, Alcanena has been a tanning center since the 18th century. The nearby Alviela River was crucial for its tanning pits, and the area continues to produce high-quality leathers for the global market.
Germany and Switzerland
German towns like Offenbach am Main and Swiss regions such as Zurich became Leathercraft hubs during the Renaissance. Their location along major trade routes allowed them to serve both local and export markets.
Why These Locations?
Several factors determined the location of tanneries:
- Access to Water: Tanning requires large amounts of water to soak, clean, and treat hides. Proximity to rivers or lakes was critical.
- Availability of Raw Materials: Regions with abundant livestock provided steady supplies of hides.
- Forests: The bark of oak, chestnut, and other trees was essential for vegetable tanning.
- Markets: Tanneries often emerged near towns with high demand for leather goods, such as military camps or trading hubs.
Leather in the Modern World
Despite industrialization, leather retains its appeal as a premium material. Artisanal Leathercrafters preserve traditional techniques, crafting bespoke items that celebrate the material’s heritage. Meanwhile, ethical concerns have prompted the rise of eco-friendly tanning processes, such as vegetable tanning and synthetic alternatives.